Home » How To Make Your Beater’s Crappy Clear Coat Look A Lot Less Awful
- ByLewin Day
- August 30, 2024
- 9:30 am
- 50 Comments
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The big difference between paint on modern cars versus classics is that today, every car on the market comes slathered in clear coat. We love it for its glossy look and the way it protects the color coat underneath. We also hate it when it starts flaking off and makes our car look like garbage. When this inevitably happens to you, don’t fret—there is something you can do to make things a little bit better.
This video comes to us from Lukat Fix It. It’s one of the better examples in a long-running series in which he brings haggard, worn paint back to some semblance of life. His videos are aimed directly at older cars; the sort you’ve probably owned a bunch of if you’re a fiend for Facebook Marketplace and Craigslist deals. It concerns a Jaguar with the typical malaise—a big ugly section of the hood with the clear coat flaked off.
You might think that the only remedy is a respray at this point. However, Lukat himself notes that you can still make this godawful mess look a lot better if you just give it a little love.
The process is quite straightforward. In any case like this, you’ll have an obvious delineation between areas that still have clearcoat, and those that don’t. The edge of the clearcoat will be flaky and white, and is easily the ugliest part of the panel.
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The first step is to feather the edge of the damaged clear coat out. Lukat likes to use a green kitchen pad to scuff it away. You can use sandpaper instead, but the more aggressive abrasive is more likely to eat too far through the paint. He notes it’s best to work linearly along the flaking line of clearcoat for best results. Circles don’t work here, and are more likely to create more of a visible chewed up edge.
From there, you want to shine up the areas that still have clear coat. Lukat does this with his own “Lukat Fix It Color And Gloss Restorer Polish,” though one imagines you could substitute your own mild cream polish instead. He uses a terry cloth to apply the polish and puts in some elbow grease to shine the clear coat up nicely.
The next step is to polish up the transitional region and the areas where the base color coat is exposed, where no clear coat is remaining. “Right now we just want to clean this as best as we can to match the clear coat,” says Lukat. “Remember, it’s not going to come out perfect, but it’s going to look way better. Way better!”
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His final step involves throwing his own brand of wax on top. In this case, he applies the sealing wax with a towel, working in circles, and then allows it to dry for “about 15 minutes.” He then comes back and buffs it up by hand, and gets a really solid shine by the end of it.
Lukat is pragmatic, noting the paint still has chips and damage. The line between clear coat and bare areas is also still visible up close. Regardless, he also points out it looks a million times better than the untouched sun-damaged paint. And he’s right.
The basic idea is easy enough to understand. What Lukat is doing is polishing the clear coat, and polishing the bare base coatto match—after doing his best to remove the hazy flaky section of damaged clearcoat between the two. When shined up, both areas will look more or less the same, particularly after a wax and polish. You’re never going to get to showroom shine by this method, but you can make your tired old project car look a damn sight better with little more than some polish, wax, and the ol’ elbow grease.
This isn’t some golden solution that will last forever. Remaining clearcoated areas will almost certainly begin to degrade and flake off again in time. You’re also going to have to regularly polish those bare areas of color coat that are no longer protected to keep them shiny.
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Fundamentally, though, that’s all besides the point. The real key here is that your ugly panel with messed-up clear coat doesn’t have to look that bad. If you feather the flaking areas and polish the whole thing up nicely, it can look far better than if you just left it as is.
As an owner of many cars with failing clear coats, I’m kind of heartbroken I never knew this was possible earlier. I’d always figured trying to detail the damaged areas would only make things worse. Now I know how wrong I really was… I’m almost tempted to go buy some beater to bring back to life. Hold me back.
Image credits: Lukat Fix It via YouTube Screenshot
[UPDATE:Oh, lol, I didn’t even read “BMW.” Obviously it’s a Jaaaaaaaag. –MH]
- buff it out, buffing, car detailing, Car Wash, clear coat, detailing, paint, polish, repair
A madcap engineer who loves a good montage. Ex-auto industry, ex-agriculture. Currently following a dream to write about cars, while writing killer dance music and building robots on the side.Twitter: @rainbowdefaultYouTube: What Up TK Here
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50 Comments
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Greensoul
1 day ago
Brilliant. Nissan owners take note. I rarely see a Nissan more than 6 years old without the clear coat looking like hell. BTW, I don’t dislike Nissan’s, they just happen to come with thin crappy clear coat.
Ron888
1 day ago
I recently graduated to clear coat repair so just a beginner. FWIW I found it easy to blend the clear coat join area.The tougher part was blending the touch up paint.Sanding as you would the clearcoat join looks bad with paint.A feathered spray edge works much better
Last edited 1 day ago by Ron888
Vicente Perez
1 day ago
I would add one extra step at the end: ceramic coating. It will protect the exposed paint for much longer than just waxing. Years, with proper care.
I recently purchased a used Bolt with alarmingly sun baked hood and roof. Even the black paint had started to fade, and the car is just from 2017.
I did a respray for the hood, but since the roof is not as noticeable, I found a detailer willing to give this kind of polish a go. And the result is not bad. Certainly, the hood looks much better, but at half the price, with 2 year ceramic coating included, I don’t regret trying this for the roof.
2
Andy Individual
1 day ago
Once a car has been used that much, the clearcoat thing doesn’t bother me so much. I’d rather put all the effort into getting the headlights clear again.
3
Always broke
1 day ago
I haven’t watch the video, but based on the description, I’ve been doing a simliar thing on my 30 year old car. In my experience you can make it look almost new….but, you will need to wax it monthly, keep it out of the sun, and redo the process about every year to maintain that.
3
Joke #119!
1 day ago
Next article by Lewin: “We put a Jag hood onto a BMW, and it was … just fine.”
2
Musicman27
1 day ago
That “BMW” looks an awful lot like a Jaguar…
3
Cristiana
1 day ago
Not 100% related, but sort of close. Someone keyed my car pretty badly, it went down to the metal. The car is black. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to fix it ?
1
Clark B
1 day ago
Reply to Cristiana
I had my car keyed several years ago. There may be better options on the market now, but I used a kit from Dr Colorchip that worked pretty well. Basically you apply paint to the chip or scratch, then wipe the area with an alcohol solution. Then repeat. It takes a while, but eventually you’ll have built up a coat of paint in the scratch that’s level with the rest of the paint on the panel. The alcohol wipe down removes excess paint from the area around the scratch. It actually turned out pretty good, you could only see the scratch if you were looking for it.
The other option involves touch up paint and wet sanding, which wasn’t something I felt up to.
Last edited 1 day ago by Clark B
2
Cerberus
1 day ago
Reply to Cristiana
If you go with the touch up paint route, get it from a distributor that deals in it rather than a dealer as you get a lot more for the money. I got a primer-base-clear kit from RE Paint before and they were good. Good customer service, too, and I’m sure there are plenty of others.
2
MaximillianMeen
1 day ago
Reply to Cristiana
Get a baseball bat. Wrap with razor wire. Apply to the head of the mutherf*cker with the key. Repeat as needed.
6
Always broke
1 day ago
Reply to Cristiana
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw3SEiCf2UY
this guy does a pretty good job of explaining steps to get the most out of typical spray can touchup paint. I followed this to fix several things things on my old truck and even older car. I got mixed results, the truck was white and you could barely see the difference between the new and old. The car was black and it was more obvious, but still looked a lot better than a scratch.
In both cases I used the below for primer, paint and clear. I have since sold the truck, but the car is starting to experience hairline cracks in the area I touched up (roughly 4 years ago), I don’t know if this is poor application by me, poor maintenace by me, or a limitation of the product
If the vehicle is valuable to you, i’d recommend a professional, or at least someone with experience. If not, it’s kinda fun, at least for me.
Chad
2
Andy Individual
1 day ago
Reply to Cristiana
People still carry keys? Are you sure they didn’t phone your car?
Memphomike
1 day ago
Most important lesson is that clear coats need to be waxed regularly just like regular paint.
So many are just content as long as the finish is shiny and don’t see a problem till it’s too late.
Almost every car I’ve looked at less than 20 years old has some clear oxidation…and don’t get me started about the untreated leather.
2
Clark B
1 day ago
Reply to Memphomike
Yep. I admit I’m not as good about waxing my car as I was when I was younger. But thanks to spray waxes, my paint stays pretty well protected. I just apply it every time I wash my car, and wax once or twice a year.
1
EXL500
1 day ago
Reply to Memphomike
Yep. I wax my car quarterly and it looks as good as it when new ten years ago.
1
A. Barth
1 day ago
“Green kitchen pad” – most people refer to these as Scotchbrite pads, even if they’re a different brand.
Not all sandpaper is created equal. 400 grit would likely be too aggressive, but somewhere between 400 and 2000 there is a suitable grit for this purpose.
However, the normal approach is to use rubbing compound, then polishing compound, and then wax.
1
Mechjaz
1 day ago
Reply to A. Barth
I’m guessing that was to head of accusations of sponsorshipt/”y u no disclose ads” move. It may also make it easier to localize where Scotchbrite pads aren’t known as Scotchbrite TM pads.
Ben
1 day ago
Reply to A. Barth
Not all sandpaper is created equal. 400 grit would likely be too aggressive, but somewhere between 400 and 2000 there is a suitable grit for this purpose.
After having experimented with trying to wet sand out some scuffs and scratches on my beater, I will say even 1000 grit sandpaper can be very aggressive when you’re dealing with thin clearcoats. I have a splotch on my driver’s door where I apparently sanded through the clear with 1000 grit. I was surprised how quickly it happened.
Luckily that car is in such rough cosmetic shape that it doesn’t really matter, but it was enough to convince me to leave any paint restoration more aggressive than light buffing on anything I care about to the professionals.
2
A. Barth
1 day ago
Reply to Ben
Please note that I said 2000, not 1000; there is a significant difference.
2000 is typically used for wet sanding of a final paint coat prior to applying a layer of clear. It is very non-aggressive.
1
Camp Fire
1 day ago
This article is completely derivative. I’m not saying ChatGPT generated this article, but it would have been capable of doing so. A half-hearted summary of a years-old product advertisem*nt that already made its rounds on youtube. Zero original content here, it’s an advertorial (not clear whether or not it’s sponsored, but it feels like a sponsored piece).
Can we please get back to actual content? The kind that contributes new information to the world? I like this site and do not want to see it turn into Buzzfeed.
1
Musicman27
1 day ago
Reply to Camp Fire
And the mistaken identity of the Jaguar as a “BMW” only makes it seem like there was even less effort.
Still good info though.
2
Camp Fire
1 day ago
Reply to Musicman27
Yeah, I didn’t call out the BMW gaffe because several other folks already had. But I agree, this is not the place for such an obviously sloppy mistake.
Lewin Day
1 day ago
Reply to Camp Fire
Ahaha, yeah. A bad mistake on my part. Not because I didn’t ID the car correctly. Because I started writing the piece about a video he did on a BMW, then forgot to go back and change it.
My apologies. I’m not sure about the ChatGPT nonsense, though, I don’t think AIs watch videos.
1
Ben
1 day ago
Reply to Camp Fire
This is where I will note that not everyone saw it when it apparently first made its rounds on the socials, so I appreciate that it was revisited here.
3
Cloud Shouter
1 day ago
We need a beta tester so go get that beater and shine it up.
J Hyman
10 hours ago
Reply to Cloud Shouter
Does Hollywood Tracy have any worthy candidates remaining in his fleet?
1
Cloud Shouter
1 hour ago
Reply to J Hyman
I think he still has the kitten Cherokee. That would work. If not that, then the J 10.
AircooleDrew
1 day ago
My wife’s Forester XT roof was this way. I bought it from a dealer in southern Florida because the deal was too good to pass, and also because it was free from the typical midwestern salt rot found on them up here in Chicagoland. That dryness, however came at the price of having a sun-baked roof. Thankfully the rest of the paint and clear on the car was in good enough shape that I got it looking beautiful again with a polish.
I worked my ass off trying to get the roof to look good. I cut and buffed it, wet sanded it, and polished and polished, but I just couldn’t get it to look decent enough. I ended up buying paint and just re-spraying the roof, but it doesn’t look amazing.
I wish I would have seen this technique though. Might have yielded a better result than wet-sanding the entirety of the roof.
Last edited 1 day ago by AircooleDrew
2
3WiperB
1 day ago
Does this count as a Jag article?
My only vehicle with some clear coat issues is our 2007 Airstream. Many are surprised to find out, but modern Airstreams have a clear coat finish on the Aluminum and we treat it just like a car. It can have issues at the rivet points as they get older with filiform corrosion because of the clearcoat, which is a real PITA.
Last edited 1 day ago by 3WiperB
4
Ranwhenparked
1 day ago
That’s not terrible at all, on a cheap used car, I could completely live with that, driving around with a completely oxidized finish is as embarrassing as cloudy headlights
4
Canopysaurus
1 day ago
Is putting a little Polish on your finish similar to putting a little English on a cue ball?
4
El Chubbacabra
1 day ago
Reply to Canopysaurus
I don’t know, but I know a little German.
He’s over there.
3
OSpazX
1 day ago
Reply to El Chubbacabra
But can he stand on a cue ball?
1
El Chubbacabra
1 day ago
Reply to OSpazX
I guess, if you ask him to.
2
Rollin Hand
1 day ago
Reply to Canopysaurus
People in Poland and Finland: “You wanna do what now?”
1
Wagonsarethebestanswer
1 day ago
Lewin, that sure looks like a Jaguar hood to me..
11
Urban Runabout
1 day ago
Reply to Wagonsarethebestanswer
Its a Jaguar S Type – Not a BMW of any type.
Last edited 1 day ago by Urban Runabout
7
Evan M
1 day ago
Reply to Urban Runabout
Literally why I clicked on the article haha. I was like “oh hey an s-type hood!”
4
Echo Stellar
1 day ago
Reply to Wagonsarethebestanswer
The Autopian is no place to make such a mistake!
3
Musicman27
1 day ago
Reply to Echo Stellar
It’s like saying “Let’s repair this Supra’s hood” when the picture is of an F-150 hood.
Completely and utterly wrong, and makes you look like a friggin idiot.
Last edited 1 day ago by Musicman27
1
Lewin Day
1 day ago
Reply to Wagonsarethebestanswer
Yeah, I f*cked up. I started the article writing about his BMW video, but his Jaguar video was better. And I forgot to change the reference.
1
Mrbrown89
1 day ago
I wonder what will be the best to correct the paint on the roof of my Honda Insight, the clear coat looks faded but its not flaky yet like the pictures here. I guess I just skip the step of the green kitchen pad and continue with the other steps?
Any input appreciated!
2
Rollin Hand
1 day ago
Reply to Mrbrown89
Worth a shot to try something. I have had success with Meguiar’s paint cleaners and swirl removers and a buffer. Wash and clay first, then buff it out.
Fair warning: I believe these cleaners have fillers, so the results may not be permanent. Waxing is key.
3
Cheap Bastard
1 day ago
So why not take it to the next step and spray it with a rattlecan of clear?
4
Mechjaz
1 day ago
Reply to Cheap Bastard
I have very little data to back this up so take your salt tablets, but I think there are some incompatibilities with clear paints over base coats.
I was painting my daughter’s PC case for a custom pink that she wanted, but since I was using enamel in a sprayer (not an HVLP, which probably would have done a much better job), it was killing the gloss since the sprayer spat it out in what I can only describe as a coarse or chunky mist.
In an effort to get the gloss/candy look back, I let it cure for a couple days, and then went over a test area with clear gloss enamel. On contact, it yellowed the pink, and made it look like it had been next to a fire or in a smoker’s house. I had the gloss but ruined the color and had to rework the test area.
Open to corrections, amendments, etc. Just what I saw when I tried a related-ish exercise.
1
Rollin Hand
1 day ago
Reply to Cheap Bastard
That was my thought. Probably not going to look worse, and you can sand and polish the clear.
Cerberus
1 day ago
Reply to Cheap Bastard
Because it’s cheaper and faster to make a crappy video like this for clicks? You can get pro clear in a rattlecan, too, and it’s not even that much more money. There’s a button you hit to mix the 2-part within the can before applying. Once you do that, the working time counter starts, but it’s a workable time, I can’t remember now. Either way, it’s a result that will look better and last longer than a few weeks.
2
Cheap Bastard
1 day ago
Reply to Cerberus
Bingo!
James Carson
1 day ago
Reply to Cerberus
If and that’s a big if, you prep it correctly, and can keep the bugs out of the clear coat.
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